Last year I enjoyed several products from Western Australia’s Ad Lib label, including the “Tree Hugger” No Oak Chardonnay 2008 and the “Wallflower” Riesling 2008, both listed among my “25 Great Wine Bargains of 2009.”

Add to those the Ad Lib “Mix Master” Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Western Australia, a blend with 21 percent merlot that’s fresh and bright and delicious. The color is deep ruby with a pulsing purple core; that’s how resonant it seems. The bouquet teems with touches of smoke and granite-like minerals, black currants and plums and hints of cedar and dried thyme, black olive and bell pepper, that bell pepper an authentic note that sadly has been largely eradicated from the world of cabernet sauvignon these days. Black and blue fruit flavors are intense and earthy, and the wine darkens and gains more intensity as the moments pass, picking up bass tones of espresso and mocha, wood fire and exotic spice, all stitched with vibrant acidity. This is quite a mouthful of wine, and we kept it in the kitchen for a couple of days to sip with lunch or a snack. Bottled with a screw-cap for easy opening. Very Good+. About $17.

Imported by Vintage New World, San Miguel, Cal.

A review sample.