Tue 29 Dec 2009
I don’t mean to be a jerk or anything, but you’ll have to make a few telephone calls or Internet inquiries to find the Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2006, from South Australia’s Clare Valley region. Stephanie Toole runs this small winery in an old country railway station; she is, to my mind, one of the world’s great producers of riesling wines. At three and a half years old, her Watervale Riesling ’06 has gathered to itself astonishing vibrancy and resonance, having entered a state of such pure and transparent minerality — damp shale, limestone and steel –it’s a wonder drinking it that you don’t turn into luminous crystal. First, though, you catch whiffs of lychee, peach and intense lime peel borne atop penetrating petrol (or rubber eraser) aromas. Speaking of luminous, the acidity practically shimmers in the glass, bringing to the wine a sense of trenchant, eager vitality, fit companion for a spicy nature that burgeons as the moments pass. The wine is very dry, but that character is tempered by a lovely texture that balances bright crispness with a modicum of soft, ripe stone-fruit lushness. We contentedly drank this one night with steelhead salmon, dressed only with salt, pepper and lemon juice and briefly seared. If you can find a case, drink this through 2015 or ’16, catching it in states as it evolves. Exceptional. About $19.
Imported by USA Wine West, Sausalito, Ca., for The Australian Premium Wine Collection.
This was a sample bottle sent for review purposes.