Today — Christmas Day — we launch the Third Annual “12 Days of Christmas with Champagne and Sparkling Wine,” leading to Twelfth Night. These are the traditional Twelve Days of Christmas, that is, from the birth of Jesus to the Epiphany, a time of festivity that encompasses the New Year and includes eating, drinking and merriment designed to combats Winter’s cold and woe. It’s a perfect time, therefore, to feature 12 days that celebrate the varieties of sparkling wines, their methods of production, the different grapes from which they are made, the regions from which they originate.

Primarily, I’ll offer one example each day, though on New Year’s Eve and Twelfth Night I’ll include several on the roster, and perhaps on other days too, just for fun.

A sparkling wine we took particular delight in this week was the Dopff & Irion Cremant d’Alsace Brut, made in the “traditional method,” that is, the champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle, from pinot blanc and pinot auxerrois grapes, half and half. This is a delicate, aperitif-style sparkling wine that weaves scents of apples and pears with flint and hints of almond and almond blossom. A trace of toasty almond lingers in the mouth, along with spiced pear and a touch of lychee, enlivened by crisp acidity and a chilly finger of limestone that creeps in on the finish. Really charming. Very Good+. About $20.

Sent as a sample for review from the importer, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., in New York. Limited distribution, so Worth a Search.