Picking up from yesterday’s post about three single-vineyard rieslings from Frankland Estate in Western Australia, let’s look at the winery’s “starter” riesling, the Rocky Gully Riesling 2007, not just because it’s delicious and finely-detailed but because it’s a Great Bargain.

Sipping this wine is like drinking liquid limestone that happens to be permeated by jasmine, peach, apricot and lychee and an expressive petrol/rubber eraser element. Bright, ripe apple, citrus and mango flavors are conveyed in a lovely texture that deftly balances powdery lushness with crisp, practically radiant acidity that slices like a well-poised cleaver. The wine gets more spare toward the finish, drawing out a sinewy line of lime peel and wet gravel. Absolutely delightful. Very Good+. About $16.

Imported by USA Wine West, Sausalito, Cal., for The Australian Premium Wine Collection. This was a sample bottle delivered unto my doorstep for review purposes.