This is what a pinot grigio should be, not a mouthful of bland, anonymous, vaguely citrusy stuff, but round, full-bodied, yet delicate, a wine of expressive elegance. I’m speaking of the Attems Pinot Grigio 2008, from Italy’s northeastern Collio region. (The estate goes back a thousand years.) The wine is dry, boldly crisp and lively, but close to creamy in the mid-palate — that means halfway back in its brief journey through your mouth; flavors of ripe and roasted lemons and lemon curd are bolstered by hints of apple and grapefruit, while a few minutes in the glass bring out a winsome floral element that’s both seductive and slightly astringent. An incredibly appealing and personable white wine. Excellent. About $18 to $20.
Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, Cal.

And as a note about a wine that’s Worth a Search over the next month or so, the Masi Masianco 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, is still widely available, though the 2008 version is now shipping to this country and can be found in a few markets. A blend of 75 percent pinot grigio and 25 percent verduzzo grapes, the Masianco ’07 is one of the most deliriously seductive and buoyant wines I have tripped across in a long time. The bouquet teems with heady notes of jasmine and acacia, orange rind and tangerine, lemon and lemon curd, quince and crystallized ginger. In the mouth, it combines lemony-citrus flavors with cloves, a hint of dried herbs and damp gravel. The finish is delicately spicy. Pretty as all get-out. Very Good+. About $16 and often found now on discount.
Also imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners.

Both wines tasted at a trade event.