Mon 19 Oct 2009
This morning’s weather map indicates that a general chill is settling over these United States of America, with the exception of the Southwest, where it’s going to be 97 in Phoenix. Otherwise, if you’re thinking of piloting your stove toward the refuge of beefy autumnal comfort food — braised short-ribs, pot roast, barbecue brisket — turn to the Morgan Syrah 2007, Monterey County.
Propelled by a solid (but relatively mild these days)14.3 percent alcohol and lithe, lively acidity, the Morgan Syrah ’07 is a dark, earthy and spicy wine that bursts with scents of intense and concentrated black cherry and black raspberry with fleshy, meaty overtones. That black fruit feels more macerated and roasted in the mouth, where it takes on hints of leather, black pepper, violets and tar, with a core of cocoa powder and spicy cranberry. A few minutes in the glass bring up touches of lead pencil and granite-like minerals, a natural segue into briery, brambly tannins and a slightly austere, foresty finish. The overall impression is of dynamic elegance, a sleekness slightly roughened by tannin and 14 months in French oak, 25 percent new barrels. Very attractive, but with an afterburn of power. Excellent. About $20, Great Value.