Run, don’t walk, to your nearest retail wine shop and stock up on the Excelsior Chardonnay 2008, from the Robertson region of South Africa. A lovely, fresh clean chardonnay that sees only 20 percent oak — that is to say, only 20 percent of the wine receives any time in oak barrels — this medium straw/gold-colored wine offers bright pineapple/grapefruit scents and flavors heightened by cloves and hints of mango, jasmine and honeysuckle. It’s subtle and supple in the mouth, almost luminous with vivid acidity, and the whole enterprise slides easily on a foundation of damp shale and limestone. Very Good+ and a Great Bargain at about $12, but often discounted to $9 or $10.
Cape Classics Imports, New York.