Last night LL made tuna ceviche that we ate in tacos. This involves marinating sushi-grade tuna cut into little cubes for at least four hours in lime and lemon juices, salt, pepper and sugar. After the tuna has marinated, you mix it with chopped seeded tomatoes and red onion, slices of pickled jalapeno (and some of the juice), thinly sliced romaine lettuce, diced avocado, chopped cilantro and a bit of olive oil. Stuff it into taco shells and top with salsa. Absolutely freakin’ delicious, and pretty damned spicy, too!

Obviously, we needed a wine that was clean, fresh, brisk, crisp and fruity, and fitting that profile was the Starborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008, from New Zealand’s Marlborough region. A hint of spritz testifies to the wine’s appealing liveliness, while penetrating scents of lime and grapefruit and celery, thyme and tarragon and a hint of new-mown grass draw you in. Acidity here is so vibrant that it practically sings “Oh, What a Beautiful Morning” in a very high, tiny voice. (You have to hold the glass to your ear.) Flavors of lime and pear with a hint of leafy melon and fig are nestled in a lovely texture that’s taut yet almost lush. The wine, though, is quite dry, overtly minerally in the limestone and chalk sense, and the finish is boldly austere. Very Good+ and a Great Bargain at about $15 (but often discounted to $11 or $12).

The back label says “Imported and Bottled by Starborough Vineyards, Healdsburg CA,” but this is really a Gallo product, and along, with the Gascon Malbec (more about which soon) and the Martin Codax Albarino, is one of the best of the Gallo imports.