In its making, the Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Paso Robles, sees only stainless steel, so no oak interferes with its clean, fresh vibrancy. The first impression is of something eminently sunny and leafy; the second is of tangerines, yellow plums and quince infused with cloves, dried thyme and tarragon. Acidity that’s almost crystalline enlivens a texture that’s a little dusty, almost talc-like in its seductiveness, these complementary aspects supporting hints of roasted lemon, pear and fig with a bell-like ping of grassy black currant at the core. There’s a tang of bracing grapefruit bitterness on the finish. Absolutely lovely. Perfect for sipping on this last day or two of official summer or otherwise I’m thinking ceviche or crab cakes with Asian slaw or grilled shrimp with salsa verde. Bottled with a screw-cap for easy opening. Excellent. About $15, a Terrific Bargain.