A new product from Gloria Ferrer is the stylish Va de Vi Ultra CuvĂ©e, a non-vintage sparkling wine that carries a Sonoma County designation. The wine is composed of 89 percent pinot noir grapes, 8 percent chardonnay and 3 percent muscat. The preponderance of pinot noir grapes could qualify this as a blanc de noirs (“white from black”), but the label does not assert that category. Still, this is a shivery, icy blond color through which explodes a froth of tiny platinum bubbles. Resting 18 months on the lees contributes a nutty, toasty quality to the scents and flavors of this sparkler, which actually possesses nothing of the glacial beyond its hue. This is warm and seductive, notably crisp and yet with a round and creamy texture that cushions notes of lemon and quince, ginger and cloves and hints of almond and vanilla. The material that accompanied Va de Vi to my door says that it is crafted for “the modern palate,” which, I suppose, accounts for a touch of sweetness in the beginning — though the finish is dry and minerally — and for a trace of muscat-like floridness. Altogether, a charming, forward, dare I say flirtatious sparkling wine suitable as an aperitif with light appetizers. Very Good+. About $22.