Inevitably, what with the difficulty of pronouncing the name of the currently favored Austrian grape grüner veltliner, someone would come out with the groaner of grooner, as in Grooner 2008, from the firm of Meinhard Forstreiter, in Krems-Hollenberg, which lies athwart — how often are we allowed to use that great nautical term? — the right bank of the Danube. Despite its colorful “pop” label, on which one is informed that Grooner 2008 is a “fun” wine suitable for picnics and such, this is actually pretty damned tasty and authentic stuff for the price. Pale straw gold with a hint of a green sheen, the wine offers notes of green grapes and apples, figs and yellow plums along with a finely etched edge of slate. Crisp acidity lends the wine a fresh and lively sensibility, while flavors of smoky melon and pear are animated by a hint of cloves and dried thyme and anchored by subtle minerality. Very appropriate for summertime quaffing, as an aperitif or with seafood salads or sushi, grilled calamari or octopus. Very Good. About $12.

Forstreiter, by the way, is the only producer in Austria to grow zinfandel, a fact that means we should either yield up a blessing or call a posse.

Imported by Fredrick Wildman and Sons, New York.