… and then there’s this, assembled by LL a few nights ago: seared ahi tuna, rose-and- purply-rare in the center; hard-boiled eggs; boiled fingerling potatoes; sliced red and yellow tomatoes; green beans just barely cooked; black olives; strips of red bell pepper; a tangle of greens including arugula, basil and baby kale so tender you could eat it raw; a few capers; all lightly doused with a mustard-thyme vinaigrette made by me. Except for the tuna, the olives and the capers, everything came from local farmer’s markets. While partaking of this meal, we kept remarking on how fresh everything tasted, how clean and summery, and those elements — as well as the excellent quality of the tuna, which came from Costco — kept recurring to us over the next couple of days. We considered the meal a triumph of local eating with ingredients simply prepared. (By the way, I have been recruited to sit on the selection board of the Memphis Farmers Market, which occurs every Saturday from May through October, occupying the covered bus lanes at the old train station downtown.)

To accompany our salade niçoise, I opened the MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris 2008, Sonoma Coast, a charming, pert and lively pinot gris that was a delicious match with the dish. Made primarily in stainless steel, the wine retains appealing crispness and scintillating minerality while offering a texture that’s close to lush; roasted lemon, quince and crystallized ginger take on overtones of lilac and lavender, all wrapped around a backbone of spiced pear and lemon curd. A touch of dried herbs and more spice enliven the finish. MacMurray Ranch, long ago the home of actor Fred MacMurray — kids, Google My Three Sons — is owned by Gallo. Drink through 2010 grilled seafood, ceviche and sushi. Very Good+. About $20.

MacMurray Ranch label image from GoodWinesUnder20.