Sun 24 May 2009
When I realized that this chenin blanc from South Africa’s Western Cape region was a “wooded chenin,” I thought, “Gosh, what I really want from a cheap chenin blanc is crispness and freshness, not wood.” 
The Golden Kaan Chenin Blanc 2007, however, is thoughtfully and subtly made, with 70 percent of the wine kept in stainless steel and 30 percent seeing French oak for three months. The wood influence is more of a haze, a smoky blondness of wood than anything obvious. The wine is quite delectable, bursting with peach and yellow plum and quince scents and flavors, which, in the mouth, are sustained by a texture that would classify as lush if it weren’t jazzed by vibrant acidity and a scintillating limestone finish. For all its sensual appeal, this chenin blanc is a little too structured to serve as an easy-going aperitif; better to try it with grilled fish or seafood pasta. 977 cases were imported. Lots of personality for the price. Very Good+. About $10.
Imported by Racke USA, Sonoma Cal.
May 25th, 2009 at 2:26 am
I always prefer it when they label these as “Steen”. Makes me think of Voortrekkers and the Transvaal and other Dutch-influenced words in Afrikaans that employ double vowels.
I actually avoided Chenin Blanc for a couple of years in my early 20s. I had made the mistake of pairing a warm Oregon CB with a sack of Krystals at three in the morning. Thankfully that association has worn off since.
May 25th, 2009 at 7:45 am
Sounds like an interesting offering. I’ll have to search for it.
May 25th, 2009 at 1:41 pm
It is, Thomas. I was surprised at the quality for a $10 wine. I believe that the 08 will be released soon; I’ll look for that one too.
May 26th, 2009 at 6:36 am
Ah, youth, Benito, when we do these inexplicable things! I’m glad your heart has softened toward chenin blanc.