>I am sick and tired of bland wines with manufactured flavors and engineered mellowness.

>I am sick and tired of organically- and biodynamically-produced wines whose sole justification is the smugness of their back-label texts.

>I am sick and tired of gimmicks and devices and diversions, of PR ploys and marketing skirmishes and industry trends, of cuteness and wackiness and self-satisfied back-stories, anything that detracts from the wine and does not let the wine speak for itself.

> I am sick and tired of producers that apply oak to their wines as if on automatic pilot, whose attitude is “If this is wine, there must be oak; if this is a reserve wine, there must be more oak.”

>I am sick and tired of cheap wines that all taste the same and expensive wines that all taste the same.

>I am sick and tired of the lip-service paid to varietal and regional qualities in wines that display no varietal or regional character.

>I am sick and tired of the lack of individuality in winemaking, of the tendency toward the lowest common denominator, of the implication that wine consumers don’t give a damn what they drink, that all producers have to do is get together a whole bunch of grapes from “California” or “North Coast” or “South Eastern Australia” or “Navarra,” make the wine, slap a critter label on the bottle and send it out there.

And, hey, have a great weekend!