Mon 4 May 2009
Jim Barry Wines is best known for its flagship product “The Armagh” Shiraz, consistently one of the best shiraz (syrah) wines produced in Australia. In the United States, the price for “The Armagh” runs from $145 to $175 a bottle. The winery offers less expensive wines, fortunately, and one of the most seductive of these is “The Cover Drive” Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, South Australia. Made completely from cabernet sauvignon grapes, the wine ages 12 months in half-and-half French and American oak barrels. It delivers gangbusters aromas of mint and bell pepper, softly spiced and macerated black currants and plums, cedar and tobacco, with a back-note of mulberry. The dark ruby-purple wine is robust without being rustic and full-bodied without being cushiony; it’s powered by sleek and chewy tannins and oak that feels polished with dry, slightly woody spices, while a few minutes in the glass allow the wine to unfurl smoke and potpourri wreathed with scintillating minerals. The alcohol measures a heady 15 percent, but this factor is deftly balanced by lively acid and succulent, but not opulent, fruit. Drink through 2011 or ’12 with grilled steaks or leg of lamb. Excellent. About $17.50 to $20.
Imported by Negociants USA, Napa, Cal.
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