… that Smith-Madrone made only 378 cases of its Riesling 2007, from the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley. Smith-Madrone’s is a legendary California riesling, along with rieslings from Trefethen, Navarro and a few other producers.

Last night, LL brought to the dinner table filets of salmon (coated with gray sea-salt and thyme), a white bean and carrot salad and sauteed Swiss chard, while, for my part, I opened a bottle of the Smith-Madrone Riesling 2007. This is a wine that breathes the essence of crystalline clarity and purity, of perfect balance and poise. A pale straw color, the wine opens with scents of lychee and camellia, with back-notes of pear and peach and a hint of the grape’s requisite petrol-ish element. Sheaves of delicacies are strung on a wire of electrifying acidity that keeps the wine virtuous and vibrant without breaking the aura of subtlety and nuance. Mildly spiced and roasted lemon dominates citrus flavors imbued with a tinge of melon; the wine’s texture serves as an exemplar of how tautness and crispness may seamlessly coexist with juicy flavors and moderate lushness. Along with a tremendous wash of limestone minerality in the finish, the wine brings in a final fillip of lime zest and orange rind. Drink (well-stored) through 2012 to ’15. Exceptional. About $25.

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