Hahn Estates has fingers in many pies. The labels include Hahn Estates, Smith & Hook Winery, Bin36, Huntington Wine Cellars and Cycles Gladiator Wines, as well as, at the high end (depending on how that term is defined), Hahn SLH and Lucienne.

A wine to look for is the Hahn SLH Pinot Gris 2007. SLH stands for Santa Lucia Highlands, in Monterey County. This is all stainless hahn-pinot-gris.jpg steel pinot gris offers notes of spiced pear and apple, a hint of apricot and a whiff of smoky roasted lemon. It’s very earthy in the mouth, feeling grounded in the vineyard, but it’s also notably clean and fresh, zinging with vivid acidity and a scintillating touch of grapefruit liveliness, all rounded with a strain of mango and crystallized ginger. While these elements make the wine sound unabashedly exuberant, there’s a taming factor of subtlety and suppleness about it, a cooling edge of mineral-like elegance. We drank this very happily night with seared tuna steaks 1,260 cases produced. Drink through the end of 2009. Excellent. About $20.

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