Hahn Estates has fingers in many pies. The labels include Hahn Estates, Smith & Hook Winery, Bin36, Huntington Wine Cellars and Cycles Gladiator Wines, as well as, at the high end (depending on how that term is defined), Hahn SLH and Lucienne.

A wine to look for is the Hahn SLH Pinot Gris 2007. SLH stands for Santa Lucia Highlands, in Monterey County. This is all stainless steel pinot gris offers notes of spiced pear and apple, a hint of apricot and a whiff of smoky roasted lemon. It’s very earthy in the mouth, feeling grounded in the vineyard, but it’s also notably clean and fresh, zinging with vivid acidity and a scintillating touch of grapefruit liveliness, all rounded with a strain of mango and crystallized ginger. While these elements make the wine sound unabashedly exuberant, there’s a taming factor of subtlety and suppleness about it, a cooling edge of mineral-like elegance. We drank this very happily night with seared tuna steaks 1,260 cases produced. Drink through the end of 2009. Excellent. About $20.

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