Whoa, I’m actually getting the Wine of the Week posted on Monday, instead of Tuesday at 11 p.m. (or Wednesday morning)!

For this week turn to a delightful yet slightly serious entry from Tuscany, the Pagano Chianti 2007. Wines labeled simply Chianti represent the working class of the Chianti realm, hefting the other categories on their shoulders and not getting much respect. This wine, however, offers authentic sangiovese touches of strawberry and raspberry, smoke and dried spice, violets and potpourri. In the mouth, the flavors darken a bit with strains of black currant and plum given a shaded hue by hints of tea-like mossiness and underbrush. Tannins are earthy and a bit gritty, giving the wine a bumptious, rustic aspect that smooths out with some time in the glass or going back to the wine the next day, as we did. It’s direct, it’s countrified, it’s tasty, a good match for hearty pizzas and pasta dishes or with burgers. Very good. About $10.50.

Scoperta Importing Co., Cleveland Heights, Ohio. Available primarily in the Upper Midwest and on the East and West Coasts.