Is Wednesday too late to post a Wine of the Week? Well, no, not if I say so. Call it a short week.

Here we have a wine that may stun you with its utter familiarity, not to say ubiquity, but the selection today is the Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay 2007, Russian River Valley, sporting the new labels with which the line is adorned. Now let me make this perfectly clear: As much as we might all like to be sipping away at limited-edition, hand-crafted, family-made wines from New labels for Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve series obscure and blazingly authentic little appellations discovered yesterday, it’s not always possible to do so. And if you’re sitting in a bar in Duluth, say, or Dallas, or Dwaynesboro, and you ask for a glass of chardonnay with your fried calamari appetizer, you would not be unhappy at all to have a glass of this dependable, well-made wine.

It’s clean and fresh, of course, balanced and integrated, easily surmounting that first level of requirement, but beyond that, the wine packs a lot of detail and dimension into a sleek, suave package. Fruit is classic pineapple-grapefruit infused with lemon balm and lemon drop and a hint of mango. Spice runs up and down the scale, but playing second fiddle to hints of roasted pear and lightly buttered toast, all of this amalgamated in a burgeoning tide of minerality. A lovely quaff to drink through the end of 2009 or into 2010. Very Good+. About $17, but often discounted as low as $14.