That is, J Cuvée 20 Brut, a non-vintage sparkling wine from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Cuvée 20 was designed to cuvee20.jpg celebrate J’s 20 years of making sparkling wine, though the winery also produces chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot noir wines. A blend of chardonnay grapes (49 percent), pinot noir (49 percent) and pinot meunier (2 percent), J Cuvée 20 Brut is made in the traditional champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle.

A glimmering pale gold color, this sparkler delivers classic aromas of fresh biscuits and lightly buttered toast, almond and almond blossom, roasted lemon and limestone. It’s full-bodied and creamy, yet taut with lively acidity; cinnamon toast and crystallized ginger, Key lime pie and orange zest add detail to the dimension of this wine’s depth, density and intensity, a satisfying model of the marriage of power and elegance. The finish is properly dry, austere and stony. Excellent. On the Internet prices range from $20 to $33, so let’s say about $25 to $28 is right.