Well, this is just as pretty as can be.

The Bailly Lapierre Brut Rosé 2006, Crémant de Bourgogne, is a blend of pinot noir grapes with gamay (only 20 percent bailly-lapierre.JPG gamay is allowed in the wine) that scintillates with charm and delight. The color is a lovely deep melon-magenta; about a million tiny bubbles teem in the glass, while scents of fresh bread and macerated cherries beguile the nose. The wine, made in the traditional champagne method, is dry, crisp and lively, with flavors of dried raspberries and strawberries and hints of orange zest, all permeated by a firm, vibrant limestone element. A terrific sparkling wine for a small party or dinner. Very Good+. About $18 to $22.

William Harrison Imports, Manassas, Va.

Crémant de Bourgogne is an anomaly in several senses. First, it’s the only sparkling wine allowed to be produced in Burgundy, or at least allowed to carry the name Bourgogne on the label. Second, it’s made a considerable distance from Burgundy proper, its production centered around the town of Auxerre, which, your atlas will reveal, lies about equidistant between Dijon and Paris. In fact, Auxerre is west of Chablis, which is itself far enough northwest of Dijon that you have to wonder what sense it makes for Chablis to be nominally included as part of Burgundy anyway. France may have produced the great rational minds of Descartes, Montesquieu, Montaigne and Foucault, but the French wine laws might as well have been designed by Marcel Marceau.