Mon 8 Dec 2008
Most producers in Burgundy turn out a basic level wine, denominated just Bourgogne, but usually with a proprietary name to distinguish it from all the other Bourgognes. However basic the wines may be, the grapes still have to come from vineyards in officially recognized areas of Burgundy. not from just, you know, someone’s backyard.
So, the Faiveley “Joseph Faiveley” Bourgogne 2006 offers a limpid medium ruby color, like the color of a glass of wine in a Dutch still-life painting. Aromas of slightly macerated black cherry are wreathed with smoke and dried spice with a touch of clean earth and loam. The texture is satiny, and the black cherry flavor takes on a zesty note of cranberry highlighted by lively acidity. Tannins in the form of underbrush and brambly qualities sustain a smooth, autumnal finish. The wine is, in short, real pinor noir, real Burgundy, but in a minor yet quite delicious and well-structured mode. Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, Ca., imported 2,200 cases of this wine. Very Good+. I wish I could say, as in back in the day, that this wine costs $14 or $16, but the reality of our world now is that the suggested retail price is about $22.