Run, do not walk, to your favorite retail store or to your computer keyboard and track down the Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de pomerolshbpicpoul.jpg Pinet 2007, Coteaux du Languedoc, in the South of France. Produced from white picpoul grapes by a cooperative called Cave de PomĂ©rols, all in stainless steel, the wine offers an amazing rich, spicy savory character. Notes of green apple and pear waft from the glass, with a touch of fig and a hint of honey, though the wine is completely, almost dauntlessly, dry. In the mouth, the texture is smooth and would be close to luxurious if not for the bright blade of acid that makes the wine seem to pulse with animation. Flavors run to roasted lemon and lemon balm with a hint of fig and roasted peach at the core. It takes a few sips, but you quickly realize that the wine exults in pure minerality, like a bell-tone of limestone and oyster shell. And speaking of oyster shells, it’s difficult to imagine a better wine to accompany fresh oysters or grilled shrimp, though we knocked this bottle back, um, I mean sipped it sagaciously, standing in the kitchen nibbling slices of ComtĂ© cheese, and it was great like that. Anyway, I’ll rate this wine Very Good+. The price? Are you ready? About $11, or A Bargain of the Ages.

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