Wed 26 Nov 2008
I’m not going to tell you what wines to drink with tomorrow’s Thanksgiving feast. Many other writers, in print and online, have done that. You’ve probably already laid in your selections anyway. What I will tell you, however, is what to drink after dinner, with the pumpkin or sweet potato pie, or with cheese and walnuts, or to sip, sweet and savory, by itself.
The wine is question is the Churchill’s 10 Years Old Tawny Porto, from the house of Churchill Graham. Made from the traditional grapes of port — touriga nacional, touriga francesca, tinta roriz, tinta barroca and tinta cao — this immensely satisfying tawny displays an entrancing medium-to-dark amber color that harbors a glowing rusty garnet hue within. Aromas of apple and pear, toffee and toasted almonds and roasted plums waft from the glass. This port is smooth, dense and chewy, almost viscous; flavors of spicy fruitcake, figs and citron fill the mouth, deepened and darkened by a smoky, autumnal character and, at the bottom, a sublime note of bitter chocolate. Yes, it’s sweet, but moderately so, and as the port passes through your mouth, the sweetness lessens, so the finish is dry, even close to austere. Once opened, this bottle will last for two or three weeks. Excellent. About $35.
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York.