One of the most reliable and individual inexpensive wines from California is X Winery’s “Red Wine.” The blend is always different and interesting, and the wine is versatile in matching with many dishes, from pizzas and pastas to steak. pork chops and barbecue brisket. The X Winery Red Wine 2006 — the winery is in the Napa Valley but the designation here is California — is a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 22 percent syrah, 12 percent zinfandel and 6 percent petite sirah. Not surprisingly the wine is robust and spicy, drenched with flavors of black currant, black raspberry and plum with hints of blueberry; that fruit is wrapped around a core of lavender, bitter chocolate and minerals. It’s an intense and concentrated wine, a bit heady at 15 percent alcohol, and bolstered by purposeful tannins that permeate a dense and chewy texture. The grapes for this wine derive from Lake County (74%), Paso Robles (17%) and Napa Valley (9%). X Winery makes 6,000 cases of the Red Wine 2006, far more than the production of their other wines. Very good+. About $14, and Great Value.