One of the most reliable and individual inexpensive wines from California is X Winery’s “Red Wine.” The blend is always different and 06_x_redx_large.jpginteresting, and the wine is versatile in matching with many dishes, from pizzas and pastas to steak. pork chops and barbecue brisket. The X Winery Red Wine 2006 — the winery is in the Napa Valley but the designation here is California — is a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 22 percent syrah, 12 percent zinfandel and 6 percent petite sirah. Not surprisingly the wine is robust and spicy, drenched with flavors of black currant, black raspberry and plum with hints of blueberry; that fruit is wrapped around a core of lavender, bitter chocolate and minerals. It’s an intense and concentrated wine, a bit heady at 15 percent alcohol, and bolstered by purposeful tannins that permeate a dense and chewy texture. The grapes for this wine derive from Lake County (74%), Paso Robles (17%) and Napa Valley (9%). X Winery makes 6,000 cases of the Red Wine 2006, far more than the production of their other wines. Very good+. About $14, and Great Value.