Sat 16 Aug 2008
It’s Still Summertime, So Here Are Six Delightful, Inexpensive White Wines
Posted by Fredric Koeppel under Cheap WineNo Comments
Just to show you that we’re not only about wines that cost $200 a bottle, as we wrote about yesterday. These will be more in
tune with the pocketbooks of real people, like you and me.
*Oak Grove “Reserve” Sauvignon Blanc 2007, California. This is fresh, clean, delicate and dry; peach and pear flavors are mildly herbal and grassy, faintly floral, all set into a pleasing texture that balances moderate lushness with crisp acid. A touch of bitterness buoys the finish. A nice aperitif or to serve with light picnic fare. Good+, and certainly worth about $8.
*Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007, California. Though the designation is California, 93 percent of the fruit for K-J’s Vintners Reserve Sauvignon Blanc ’07 comes from Lake County, the rest from Mendocino and Sonoma counties. And it’s a blend of 95 percent sauvignon blanc grapes, 4.4 percent semillon, and 0.3 percent each viognier and muscat canelli. And, 8 percent of the wine was fermented and aged in new oak, though we are not told what kind or for how long. I don’t mean to overwhelm readers with technical information, but I want to point out that K-J winemaker Randy Ullom spends considerable amount of time working on the details of the Vintners Reserve wines, trying to give them personality as well as a soupcon of character. The result here is a wine that’s incredibly clean and bright and refreshing, bursting with snappy grapefruit, lime zest and gooseberry scents and flavors with a touch of melon and pear. Dried thyme and tarragon (and a hint of honeysuckle) weave their way through the wine, which finishes with an explosion of spice and limestone. Very Good, and A Bargain at about $11. 
*Nobilo Pinot Gris 2007, East Coast, New Zealand. About $13. Nobilo’s Pinot Gris ’07 spends three months in oak, and you feel it in your mouth like a soft burr (yielding a lovely texture), in the way (if we can use a metaphor from a vastly different medium) that ink spreads delicately yet irrevocably through the lines on an etching plate. I don’t mean to make the wine sound dark and heavy; it is, rather, clean and fresh and delightful, with bright lemon-lime and lemon curd flavors permeated by dried Provencal herbs and potpourri and, on the finish, hints of spice and limestone. This is a bit more serious than most people are prepared for in a pinot gris (or pinot grigio), but it’s definitely worth trying. Very good+ and A Bargain at about $13.
*Climbing Chardonnay 2007, Orange, Australia. The high-elevation Orange region is about three-and-a-half hours drive west of Sydney. This is an extremely attractive chardonnay. Partially barrel-fermented and then aged six months in new French barrels, the wine bears its oak lightly, in the form of spice and smoke and a suave texture leavened by crisp acid and mineral elements. It’s clean and crisp, well-balanced and tasty with grapefruit and pineapple flavors that open to hints of roasted lemon and mango. Bottled with a screw-cap for easy opening. Very good+. About $15.
*Morgan Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Monterey. Always one of the best. Fifteen percent semillon grapes give the wine’s bright lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors a touch of leafiness and spiced fig. It’s notably clean and crisp, deftly balanced between ripe fruit and tartness; there’s a definite new-mown-grass quality, but the wine avoids overt “grassiness.” Hints of peach and melon come up after a few minutes in the glass; the finish is dense with grapefruit and limestone. A large portion of the wine, 85 percent, spends three months in French oak, but only 8 percent of the barrels are new, so the wood influence is almost subliminal.
Excellent, and Great Value. About $15.
*Lee Family Farm Silvaspoons Vineyard Verdelho 2007, Alta Mesa. The Lee Family Farm is a pet project of Dan Lee, long-time owner and winemaker for Morgan. Alta Mesa is a subregion of the Lodi AVA (American Viticultural Area); it’s a warm growing area with cool late afternoons, well-suited to the Portuguese verdelho grape. Ron Silva, owner of Silvaspoons Vineyard, was the first person to plant the grape in California. This version of verdelho is absolutely irresistible. It’s a cool, crisp, almost elegant wine, with lemon curd and lemon balm scents and flavors highlighted by melon and grapefruit. And it’s snappy and a bit sassy, with the fresh attack of green apple and white pepper tapering to pear and gentle spice in the finish. Gentle also is the oak, which is like a soft burgeoning that brings moderate lushness to a lovely texture. Excellent, and Great Value at about $15. Production was 350 cases, so mark it Worth a Search.