Winemaker George Bursick turned out an exemplary model in the J Pinot Gris 2007, Russian River Valley. This is a absolutely lovely jwine.jpg rendition of the grape, fresh, clean, bright and crisp, displaying very spicy notes of roasted lemon and lemon curd with hints of pear and peach, permeated by elements of limestone and wet gravel. The balance between vibrant acid — there’s no oak here, only stainless steel — and luscious fruit provides the wine with exquisite resonance and allure, while a touch of astringency on the finish, like the chastening power of grapefruit and some austere white mountain flower, lends a touch of seriousness. Try this the next time you’re grilling salmon or having Thai food or shrimp risotto. Production was 17,500 cases, so there’s plenty to go around. Excellent. About $20.

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