Lifting a steak, hot and crusty, from the grill? Pork chops with a Southwestern rub? How about a leg of lamb, studded with garlic and rosemary? Or even a plateful of burgers. meaty and juicy. antis-malbec-reserve-04.JPG

A terrific wine to serve with any of those foods — and even though I’m writing this at 6 a.m., before breakfast, I’ve made myself hungry for red meat — would be the Antis Reserve Mablec 2004, from Argentina’s Mendoza region. This is a tremendously vibrant and intense example of Argentina’s best grape. It’s robust, dense and chewy, packed with deep and spicy black currant, cherry and plum flavors with a wild edge of blueberry. The wine feels classically structured and balanced, charged with a taut yet tender relationship among fruit and acid, grainy tannins and polished oak (from aging a year in French barrels, 50 percent new). Drink now through 2010. Very good+. About $15 to $18.

William-Harrison Imports, Manassas, Va.