The Taltani Brut Taché, non-vintage, is a great deal for the price. A blend of 52 percent chardonnay, 41 percent pinot noir and 7 percent pinot meunier grapes (the traditional grapes of Champagne), the wine derives from the Pyrenees region of Australia’s 62.jpg Victoria (70 percent) and from Tasmania (30 percent). The color is what LL, who knows something about gems and watches and so forth, called “rose gold,” which is to say that it’s like pale salmon-copper with a shimmering pink-silver sheen. The bouquet is a delicate weaving of macerated raspberry and dried orange rind with hints of toasty, biscuity notes. In the mouth, this methode champenoise sparkling wine nicely balances its effervescence with a slightly creamy texture and scintillating acid, subdued citrus flavors and burgeoning elements of limestone and chalk. In a word: delicious. I rate this Very Good+ and a Good Value at about $22.

Look all the way Down Under to Tasmania for the Clover Hill Brut 2003, a blend of 55 percent chardonnay, 39 percent pinot noir 70.jpg and 6 percent pinot meunier. This is a very charming and nicely complex sparkling wine, also methode champenoise, that’s unusually fruity and savory. Scents and flavors of roasted lemon, lemon curd, quince and lime are bolstered by smoky, biscuity elements with backnotes of toffee and cinnamon toast. The limestone and flint really come up in the mouth, adding a slightly formidable touch to ringing acid and a texture that balances lace-like effervescence with the heft of its yeasty, oaky nature. I rate this Tasmanian sparkling wine Excellent. At $32, it’s Worth a Search. especially because, unfortunately, only 200 cases were imported to the United States.

The importer is Goelet Wine Estates, formerly Clos du Val Wine Co. Visit taltarni.com.au.

On The Seventh Day of Christmas? Whoa, that’s New Year’s Eve! You’ll have to check back tomorrow.