I’ve tasted other champagnes from the well-run house of Bruno Paillard, but for whatever reason had not tried their Rèserve Privée Blanc de Blancs, non-vintage, before. Boy, am I glad I did.

Made completely from chardonnay grapes, this utterly elegant and refined Blanc de Blancs offers a radiant pale gold color enlivened by a persistent swirling surge of tiny bubbles. The bouquet wreathes limestone, roasted quince and pear, almond skin and lightly buttered toast. It’s a well-integrated champagne that finds perfect equilibrium among mature notes of wheatmeal and caramel, a light gloss of citrus flavors, resonant acid and a powerful limestone element that dominates the long, spicy finish. Clearly a rating of Excellent is merited here. The suggested retail price is $70

Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.

On the Sixth Day of Christmas? Sorry, you’ll have to check back tomorrow.