In The New York Times this morning, food writer Alex Witchel uses the phrase “very, very dry, very very expensive” champagne, but very, very dry champagne doesn’t have to be very, very expensive.

Example: The Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P (from a house founded in 1812), a blend of 45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 15% pinot meunier that quivers with keen minerality, zinging acid and exquisitely appointed dryness. The color is burnished light gold, and 37652.jpg the glass is filled invitingly with millions of tiny, seething bubbles. Immediately, you smell the biscuits and toast, then green apple and citrus with hints of clove and ginger. There’s a touch of lushness in the mouth, with nutty, slightly roasted citrus flavors, but the emphasis is on the elegance and austerity of chalk and limestone; the effect is taut and distancing, almost glacial, though the finish gets toastier after a few minutes. LL and I love this style of champagne for its Alpine vivacity, purity and brightness. An Excellent rating. Suggested retail price is about $37; prices range on the Internet from about $30 to $60, so you pays yer money and you takes yer choice.Imported by Laurent-Perrier U.S. Inc., Sausalito, Ca.. Visit the company’s website here.

On the Third Day of Christmas with champagne or sparkling wine … well, you have to check back tomorrow.